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Whenever compiling a list of London’s top dining spots, one might foresee well-known Michelin-starred venues. But, nestled high among these gastronomic giants is a modest salonu situated in a distant corner of north London.

An Shocking Recognition

The small Turkish restaurant, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the fourth best restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent culinary publication. This recognition has left the family totally astonished.

“I’m completely surprised,” states a proprietor, alluding to his parents’ hard graft that led to their humble shop earning such a high ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

The Character of Modesty

This small shop, which started as a simple cafe before its change into a buzzing spot, has retained much of its original feel. It accommodates just over 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking display, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy place,” comments the owner.

The Namesake Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all down to the cuisine, and this eatery certainly succeeds. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a moist, juicy texture.

The meat is then tossed into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. When the meaty mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is folded neatly inside.

The wrap is often eaten with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a powerful punch of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A respected food critic called this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe proves a delight. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, giving it a deeper, toastier and more balanced flavour.

Outranking the Giants

Interestingly, this unassuming restaurant has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant satisfied for under £25, equivalent experiences at high-end establishments can cost significantly more than that figure.

The Philosophy of Heart

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is located well outside the city’s central zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I do not subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The philosophy is shared by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he were in a position of authority, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London train at this restaurant as a final lesson, to show them the dangers of overcomplication, and to reveal what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

A Journey of Hard Work

Unlike many chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food didn’t apprentice at Michelin-starred establishments. “I feel truly proud of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to find their footing, but this one first started seven years ago. Its success is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum used to be very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a personal life but her friends would support her to support her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. Each of these duties forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.

A Recognition for the People

The restaurant’s success is set to have meaning beyond its own doors. “In my opinion a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the wider meaning of this culinary achievement.